How can formulators build natural preservative systems without compromising safety, sensorials, or compliance?
A natural preservative system is a formulation strategy that combines (1) permitted or naturally derived antimicrobial components with (2) multifunctional boosters (e.g., glycols, amphiphiles, phenolic boosters) to achieve broad‑spectrum protection against bacteria, yeast, and mold in water‑containing products while aligning with clean beauty claims and certification expectations such as COSMOS.
Because efficacy is highly dependent on the formulation matrix (water activity, pH, surfactants, botanicals, packaging), natural preservation is most reliably achieved through system design + challenge test validation, rather than a single ingredient substitution.
Where DKSH Performance Materials fits: DKSH Performance Materials supports formulators with system selection, lab evaluation planning, documentation access, and sampling pathways for Ashland’s natural preservation portfolio, helping customers move from concept to validated formula more efficiently.
Why is “natural preservation” a growing formulation priority in skin and personal care?
Several market forces are accelerating demand for natural preservation strategies:
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Clean beauty expectations are shifting from “free‑from” to “credible”
Consumers interpret “clean” differently by region, but globally the direction is toward ingredient scrutiny, transparency, and safety reassurance, especially in APAC where clean is strongly linked to “safe” and “free‑from” messaging.
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Third‑party standards increase the need for compliant systems
COSMOS provides structured frameworks and databases for organic/natural certification—pushing brands toward ingredient combinations that can meet certification requirements and withstand scrutiny.
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Natural/organic personal care demand continues to expand
Market research consistently attributes preservative innovation to growing demand for natural and organic product positioning, even as brands must still meet microbiological safety expectations.
DKSH Performance Materials helps translate these trends into practical formulation routes by guiding customers on which multifunctionals to evaluate, what test plan to run, and how to align documentation and claims support with target market expectations.
What formulation challenges make natural preservation difficult?
Formulators typically face four technical constraints when moving toward natural preservation systems:
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Matrix sensitivity: efficacy can change dramatically depending on emulsifier choice, botanical load, surfactant system, and packaging.
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pH dependency: many natural systems perform best within narrower pH windows (often mildly acidic).
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Need for synergy: a “booster + glycol + preservative” architecture is often required to reach broad‑spectrum performance.
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Sensory trade‑offs: higher use levels of some multifunctionals can influence odor, tack, viscosity, or clarity.
DKSH Performance Materials adds supports customers by recommending screening designs (use‑level ladders, pH sweeps, packaging considerations), and by helping teams interpret results from preservative efficacy testing (PET/challenge tests) in the context of product type and risk profile.
How does Ashland’s natural preservation portfolio work as a “system” and what role does each ingredient play?
A natural preservation strategy is stronger when each ingredient has a clear functional role. Ashland’s three-product portfolio supports a modular approach:
INCI: Ethylhexylglycerin
Functional role: commonly used as a multifunctional booster to support preservation systems and enhance sensorial attributes (e.g., skin feel), depending on the overall matrix.
Functional role: commonly used as a multifunctional booster to support preservation systems and enhance sensorial attributes (e.g., skin feel), depending on the overall matrix.
Best-fit applications (typical): leave-on skin care, emulsions, lotions, and hygiene products where a booster approach is required to reduce reliance on traditional preservatives (system dependent). (Use-levels depend on system design and should be validated via PET.)
INCI: Pentylene Glycol
Key technical points from Ashland:
Key technical points from Ashland:
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Recommended use levels: 1.0–5.0%
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Effective in anionic, cationic, and non-ionic systems
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Broad pH usability up to pH <12
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Ashland notes that optimum dosage should be determined via preservation testing due to formulation dependence
Best-fit applications: leave-on and rinse-off products where humectancy and system robustness are needed, including surfactant-based formulations.
INCI: Raspberry Ketone
Key technical points from Ashland:
Key technical points from Ashland:
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Described as COSMOS validated and 100% natural multifunctional additive that acts as a preservative potentiator, typically used with low doses of preservatives or alternative antimicrobials.
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Recommended dosage: 0.5–1.0%
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pH performance window: pH 4–8
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Solubility considerations: addition of glycols can aid solubilization and reduce recrystallization risk at lower temperatures.
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In surfactant systems, higher surfactant levels may require higher dosage and may impact viscosity; Ashland notes viscosity can be adjusted via salt curve or additional thickeners if needed.
Best-fit applications (per Ashland technical bulletin):
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Natural certified creams, emulsions, lotions, gels (including difficult-to-preserve sun care)
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Rinse-off cosmetics such as shampoos/conditioners
How do you design a practical “natural preservative system” using these three ingredients?
A common systems approach is to assign each component a role:
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Effisin™ PG Natural (Pentylene Glycol): contributes antimicrobial activity + humectancy and helps with solubilization for some boosters.
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Sensiva™ SC 50 Natural (Ethylhexylglycerin): enhances overall preservative efficacy in combination systems and supports sensory profile.
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Phyteq™ Raspberry N (Raspberry Ketone): preservative potentiator + antioxidant/skin benefit layer, best in pH 4–8, typically 0.5–1.0%.
DKSH can provide a screening plan to quickly identify a viable system:
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Step 1: define product type + risk profile (leave-on vs rinse-off; packaging; water activity)
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Step 2: run a pH sweep (especially important for Phyteq™ Raspberry N at pH 4–8)
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Step 3: use-level ladder testing (e.g., Effisin 1/3/5%, Phyteq 0.5/0.8/1.0
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Step 4: confirm with preservative efficacy test (PET/challenge test)
What limitations and formulation “watch-outs” should be tested?
To keep the article practical (and reduce failed lab trials), include these checks:
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Crystallization/solubility: Phyteq™ Raspberry N may require glycol support at higher loads to prevent recrystallization at lower temperatures.
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Viscosity drift in surfactant systems: higher surfactant loads can affect required dosage and viscosity; salt curve or thickener adjustment may be needed.
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Matrix-dependent efficacy: Ashland emphasizes preservation testing because efficacy is strongly influenced by the formulation matrix.
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pH window: Phyteq™ Raspberry N is positioned for pH 4–8; outside this range, validate carefully. ]
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DKSH value add: DKSH can help troubleshoot these issues by recommending adjustments (pH, solvent phase, surfactant balance, packaging), and by supporting customers through repeatable test plans rather than one-off trials.
FAQ
1. What is the INCI name of Sensiva™ SC 50 Natural?
: Ethylhexylglycerin.
: Ethylhexylglycerin.
2. What is the INCI name of Effisin™ PG Natural?
: Pentylene Glycol.
: Pentylene Glycol.
3. What is the INCI name of Phyteq™ Raspberry N?
: Raspberry Ketone.
: Raspberry Ketone.
4. What use levels are typically evaluated?
: Effisin™ PG Natural: 1.0–5.0%.
: Phyteq™ Raspberry N: 0.5–1.0%.
(Optimum dosage should be confirmed via preservation testing due to matrix dependence.)
: Effisin™ PG Natural: 1.0–5.0%.
: Phyteq™ Raspberry N: 0.5–1.0%.
(Optimum dosage should be confirmed via preservation testing due to matrix dependence.)
5. What pH range should be targeted for Phyteq™ Raspberry N?
: pH 4–8.
: pH 4–8.
6. Can these ingredients be used in rinse-off products?
: Phyteq™ Raspberry N is described as applicable for rinse‑off preparations such as shampoos/conditioners; Effisin™ PG Natural is described as effective in surfactant systems.
: Phyteq™ Raspberry N is described as applicable for rinse‑off preparations such as shampoos/conditioners; Effisin™ PG Natural is described as effective in surfactant systems.
